Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Neore 2012 (1.5L)

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Price: $999.99

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Fine and Rare Collection

Producer	Edmond Vatan
Country	France
Region	Loire Valley
Subregion	Sancerre
Varietal	Sauvignon Blanc
Vintage	2012
Sku	28753
Size	1.5L
ABV	13.50%

The 2012 Sancerre Clos La Neore was poured from magnum. It has an intriguing nose, scents of dried honey and beeswax, a touch of fish scales, a slight oatmeal tincture singalling its maturity. The palate seems mature but certainly not over the hill. This is a Sancerre that refuses to kowtow to tastes, and for that, I admire it rather than relish it.

Pale yellow. Fascinating nose opens with lemon balm, then reveals more chalky nuances of mint, gooseberry and menthol with only a hint of smoky herbs and vanilla. Juicy citrus, cassis and pepper flavors are wrapped around an energetic mineral core. The veil of roasted oak is subtle, multilayered and persistent, seeming to float weightlessly over the wine in spite of its rich warmth. Ripe papaya, yellow currant and elderflower linger on the impressively long finish. Unfortunately, this is a Sancerre that few will ever see. Made from a single hectare in Chavignol by Anne Vatan, Edmund's daughter, it is for many the epitome of what a Sancerre can be. She is married to Nadi Foucault from Clos Rougeard, who I will portray in the third piece in this series on cabernet franc. She was travelling when I was in Sancerre this summer, but I was able to drink the bottle below with a friend in Paris. It's one of the finest Sancerres that I tasted for this article and will certainly be far better with a few more years of bottle age.